The Santa Teresa Bonde via M. de Assis

Over at Literatura & Rio de Janeiro, I found a post on the bondes of Santa Teresa in Rio. Within the post, there’s a lot of photos plus a chronicle by Machado de Assis on the inauguration of the bondes on March 15th, 1877. Below, I will translate it…keep in mind, it is tough to translate the 19th century writings of a creative writer.

They inaugurated the street cars [bondes in Portuguese, a word which originated from the English 'bond'] of Santa Teresa, — a system of clogs or a stairway to heaven, — an image of the things of this world. When the streetcar ascends, another descends, there is no time on the way for a pinch of snuff (powdered tobacco), but surely, two gentlemen can greet each other with a tip of the hat.

The worst is if one day, during the constant ascending and descending, descending and ascending, some ascend into heaven while others descend into purgatory, or perhaps to the morgue.

It goes without saying that the diligences saw the inauguration with an extremely melancholic eye. Some donkeys, accustomed to the ascension and descenst of the hill, were regretting this new step towards progress. One of them, a philosopher, humanitarian and ambitious, would murmur:

— They say: les dieux s’en vont [the gods are leaving]. What irony! No; not the gods but us. Les ânes s’en vont [the asses are leaving], my collegues, les ânes s’en vont. And this interesting quadruped would look at the streetcar with a face full of saudade and humiliation. Perhaps it would recall the slow fall of the donkey, expelled in every way by the steam, like the steam would be by the balloon, and the balloon by electricity, and electricity by a new force, which would take at once this grand worldly train all the way to the terminal station.

However in this way it has not…yet.

But they inaugurated the streetcars. Now Santa Teresa will become fashionable. What was worse, not to be too preachy, were the ‘trips of diligence’, and ironic name for all the vehicles of this type. Diligence is a term midway between a turtle and a bull.

One of the advantages of the streetcars of Santa Teresa on the city, is the impossibility of fishing. Fishing is the sore of the other streetcars. Like this, between the neighborhoods Largo do Machado and Glória, fishing is a true annoyance, as each streetcar descends slowly, looking out from one side or the other, to pick up a passenger from a far. Sometimes the passenger heads towards the Praia do Flamengo, while the streetcar, polite and generous, pauses, naps, takes a sniff, says a few words, collects the passenger and continues its fate until the next corner where it repeats the same lengalenga (spiel).

Nothing like this happens in Santa Teresa: where the streetcar is a real leva-e-traz (gossiper), they aren’t dissuaded to play along the way, like a loafing student.

And if after what is said and done, there isn’t any generous soul that will say that I have a house to rent in Santa Teresa-word of honor! the world is upside down.

Poem of Purification – Drummond de Andrade

Poem of purification
Carlos Drummond de Andrade
Translation: Adam

After so many battles
the good angel killed the bad angel
and threw its body into the river.

The waters became tinted
from a blood that wouldn’t discolor
and the fish all died.

But a light that no one knew
how to say from where it came
appeared to clear up the world,
and the other angel pondered the wound
of the fighter angel.

In Portuguese, here.

Subversive – Ferreira Gullar

Subversive
by Ferreira Gullar
Translation by William Jay Smith

Poetry
when she comes
respects nothing.
Neither father nor mother.
When she struggles
up from one of her abysses
she ignores Society and the State
disdains Water Regulations
hee-haws

like a young
whore
in front of the Palace of Dawn*

And only later
does she reconsider: kisses
the eyes of those who earn little
gathers into her arms
those who thirst for happiness
and justice

And promises to set the country on fire.

*The Presidental Palace in Brasilia

For the poem in Portuguese, go here.

Brazilian Farwest – Legião Urbana in English

On Youtube, there’s a user who translated a very famous 9-minute song from Legião Urbana, called Faroeste Caboclo (Mestizo Western). Not only did he translate it, but he ‘sung’ it in English. On the video’s side notes, he admits he’s a bad singer but it’s still a good attempt at an interesting idea. My Brazilian friends and I got together the other week and tried to sing the original ourselves (sans a lyrical reference) but after the halfway mark, no one could really remember the rest of the lyrics. Below, I’ll post the translated video and the original.

Here’s the lyrics in Portuguese.

The Parlance of the Paraense

I recently picked a state to study and now I’m trying to learn about it, thus a slight bias towards topics having to do with the state of Pará. In the end though, what’s interesting is what’s interesting…Below I’ll translate the story from online magazine Re-vista! of a carioca living in Belém and all the interesting instances of the Paraense parlance. First, I’ll introduce a saying that wasn’t included in the article below. “Quem vai ao Pará, parou, tomou açaí, ficou!” (roughly “Who goes to Pará, stops, has açaí and stays!”).

“To live in another Brazilian city, when its so far from where you come from, makes us come face to face with the differences in customs and principally, in vocabulary.

Every once in awhile, my friends take notice of some words I use which are unknown to them. This happened with ‘hangar’, which is called ‘cruzeta’ here, and on it goes… I have fun with this, honestly.

Thus why I decided to make a small dictionary for you all to get to know some of the differences.

· The unsupportable carioca MOSQUITOS are known in the North of Brazil as ’carapanãs’. One can find this even on the mosquito repelents;

· The good ol’ LAGARTIXA (lizard), apart from being called here by the very strange name of ‘osga’, is commonly “assassinated”. Here, it’s believed that they attack humans and suck their blood! Because of this, they are done in just like the cockroaches: by a few whacks of the sandal. I thought it must be just an old wives tale but when I called a company that deals in pesticides, they came at me with the same kind of talk;

· The nice LAVADEIRAS (laundry women) that also are known as ‘louva-deus’ in Rio, are curiously called ‘jacinta’ around here;

· In the markets and butchershops of Belém, it’s impossible to buy CARNE MOÍDA (ground beef), even though they have meat grinders. And if you were to ask for this, the attendant will just give you the strangest look, almost as if he’s looking at an alien. Ground beef here is ‘carne picadinha’, just as ground as any other, but they don’t call it so.

Apart from the different names, there are expressions that also cause estrangement to us, foreigners. One very common expression used by belemenses (people from Belém) is ‘pior’. Everything is ‘pior’! However, not in a bad way. It’s equivalent to ‘puxa’ or ‘putz’ or the famous carioca ‘pô’. An exclamation: ‘Pior!’.

Have I already spoken about the very famous ‘égua!’?! It’s another exclamation which is very, very used around here. It’s a typical slang for the paraense (people form Pará), which is one way to call the locals and it’s stamped on the tourist t-shirts too…I already tried to investigate its origin but the closest I came was that it’s a reduction of  ’pai d’égua’, the original expression. That being said, there’s no real consensus as to where the original expression came from. What is known is that both expressions are very much used to define something good. For example: a supermarket chain uses it in its adverts saying ‘promoção pai d’égua’, which would mean its a damned good discount, can’t be missed…But the ‘égua’ alone, which became its own generic exclamation, also serves for bad things. If someone takes a tumble on the sidewalk or if you tell a belemense some bad news, certainly you’ll hear them say ‘ééégua!’.

Another word I still don’t quite understand the meaning of is ‘arredar’. You want to haul something? Then you are going to ‘arredar’. If you are going to prepare, do, resolve, clean…Anything can become ‘arredar’. Example: ‘arredei’ the seat. Example two: I’m going to ‘arredar’ the fridge (meaning you’ll clean and organize it). Crazy, huh?

And there are names of places that are unforgettable. Ever imagined a neighborhood called ‘Telégrafo sem fio’? Well yeah, here in Belém there’s one and its affectionately called ‘Telégrafo’ to those who know it well. And what exactly would you call someone born in ‘Além Quer’? Well, believe it or not, there’s a city with this name in Pará.

Speaking of being born…Who is born in Belém is known as either belemense (with M) or belenense (with N). I discovered that both are possible and correct. You must have seen both being used before. But the belemenses have another name too: papa-chibé. Everyone that was born here is called this. Chibé is farinha, something the local population loves to use. It seems the little joke also has an indigenous origin too…Above all, when I think that my daughter will be called a papa-chibé, I lose all will to continue writing…Ay, ay, my departed carioca heart! Ay, ay…

Being as I am, a good carioca, FUI! (lit. ‘I went’, otherwise meaning ‘I’m done with the conversation’)”

If you are a native of Pará, perhaps you’ve noticed a few things that need correcting in her story…the commentators on the original story had a few corrections, etc to say, which I’ll also translate below.

Claudia Melo: (partial) The good ol’ LAGARTIXA, never was “assassinated” at home. After all, the eat ‘carapanã’…so, they are always welcome. Speaking of being welcome, they came to Brazil in the time of slavery, on the so-called slave ships, and they adapted in such a way that today there isn’t a single house in the country which doesn’t have a little ‘osga’…in spite of there being one where I lived which one day never reappeared…I liked her so much, I even called her by the name of Rose.

Viviane: Hi! I found your article to be very cool because it’s proof that within the same country, we have such different customs and we actually live these differences! I am a paraense, I live in Belém in the district of Icoaraci (meaning ‘facing the sun’), I’m a professor and I was looking around on the internet when I came across your article. How nice that you got to know a little of what makes a paraense, we are all papa-chibés of the círio de Nazaré, of açaí, of tacacá, of the afternoon rainfall and of a magnificent vocabulary. Did you know that the Icoracienses (people from the district) are called ’round feet’? It’s because around here, we always get around by bicycle.

A big hug for you, true carioca

Luiz Carlos: Hello, Daniele.

They call me Luiz. I’m from Belém, but I currently reside in Foz do Iguaçu – PR.

The language utilized in Belém is very similar to that which is used in specific locations in Brazil, to cite a few: Rio de Janeiro and Florianópolis, including the hiss upon speaking.

What unites us is the typical Portuguese colonization.
Example: Alenquer, aside from being a paraense city, is also a Portuguese city, just like Santarém, Ourém, Óbidos, Alter do Chão, Almeirim, Vigia, Bragança, Viseu, Portel, Benevides, Faro and Belém itself. All of the cities with these names are in homage to the homonymic Lusitanians.

‘Osga’ and ‘arredar’ can be located in the dictionary. They are very much used within the region due to the influence of the Portuguese colonization.
The ‘Pai d’égua’ was introduced, with due respect, by the cearenses (people form the state of Ceará) which arrived here in search of new opportunities.
The ‘louva-a-deus’, in Pará, is called ‘põe-a-mesa’. And as for ‘jacinta’, it actually means ‘libélula’ (dragonfly).

Brazil is imense. Brazilian culture is rich. The memory is the weak point.

Another thing: Belemense is for who was born in Belém do Pará and Belenense is for who was born in Belém in Portugal. As well as who was born in Belém in the West Bank, is called a Belemita.

Living and learning …

A New Letter from Pero Vaz de Caminha

Brazilian publicist Paulo D’Angelo rewrote the Carta de Caminha (Letter from Caminha) and won a contest called “Listener’s Chronicles”, put on by Radio Bandeirantes. His version is modern and with added humor and I decided to translate it into English below. When researching the original letter, I came across some interesting finds which include D’Angelo’s interpretation in the form of a Brazilian PodClass, the actual 27 page translation into English of Pero Vaz de Caminha’s letter to the King, an analysis of the letter (which has an interesting section called Body Details), the text in its original archaic Portuguese along with images of the actual letter, and the text in modern Portuguese.

New Letter from Pero Vaz de Caminha

“Hello my beloved King, it’s Pero Vaz on the line. Can you hear me well? I borrowed a cell phone from a native of this new land. Everything is good, Capitan Pedro is sending hugs. We got here on Tuesday, the 21st of April, but I thought it would be better to call you on Sunday because it’s cheaper to make a call. Yeah, I know, these kinds of things exist here too.

The natives were surprised by our arrival by sea but they didn’t think we were Gods, Majesty. They thought we were crazy to step foot in the polluted ocean. Is the connection good? Well, this place is kind of funny. They’ve got cell phones, imported cars, free access to the internet and even with all these things, people are still dying of malaria and malnutrition. It’s not so easy to understand.

If we already found who is in charge?

Look, King, it’s complicated. Here, there’s more indian chiefs than there are indians. As soon as we got to Porto Seguro there was a chief who said he could make it rain and that we could jail or set free anyone he wanted. Yep, he’s one crazy chief…More towards the South, we found another tribe, a marvelous village with lots of parties and pretty nearly nude natives. Going southwards from there, we went more inland and found ourselves in the planalto.

There we found a huge tribe of Sampa indians. We met their chief who had power but didn’t know how to use it, poor thing. They say that even his wife beats him. Are you laughing, Majesty? I swear what I’m saying is true. As your Majesty can see, its a simple place to colonize, especially because the natives don’t even all speak the same language.

Yes, they are pacified. If they see a coconut on the ground, they start to kick it and forget about their troubles. They know some things, like how to read…but not all of them. The majority read pretty badly and believe everything they see in print. It’ll be a cinch! It seems there’s a head honcho but he’s almost never seen because he travels a lot. They say if you are trying to find him, all you got to do is sit on his throne.

What’s really funny is that the indians work in exchange for bananas. Yeah, bananas!!! Every month they receive a minimim of 151 bananas. It’s no joke, Majesty! I’m serious!! Just come here and you’ll see. Look, I got to get off the phone. The guy who lent me it needs to make a few calls. He’s a businessman. He said he has to tell his guys theres a new arrival of farinha. Funny…they are so happy to be working…Each time new merchandise arrives, they run up the hill and let off some bottle rockets.

It’s a very rich land, Majesty. I think this time we hit the nail on the head. This here is going to be the country of the future…”

The importance of Brazilian coffee

Two lions escaped from the Zoo

During the escape, each one took a different route. One of the lions went into the jungle while the other went to the center of the city. A team from the zoo tried to find the lions in order to bring them back but after searching high and low, they gave up.

After one month, to the general surprise of everyone, the lion that returned was the one which went into the jungle. He returned skinny, hungry and weak. The zookeepers put him back in his cell where he stayed put.

Eight months passed and no one remembered the other lion anymore, the one which went to the center of the city, when one day, he was recaptured and sent back to the zoo. Only he came back fat and strong. 

The two lions had hardly had more than two seconds together when the lion who went to the jungle asked his buddy,

“How’d you manage to stay in the city this whole time and still come back so healthy? I went to the jungle and didn’t find anything to eat…”

The other lion started to explain, ”Well, I got some courage and hid myself in a government office. Each day, I would eat one public official and no one seemed to notice.”

“So why did you come back here? Did you eat all the public officials?”, asked the first lion.

“Nothing like that. There’s always more than enough of them…but I ended up making a huge mistake. I ate the General Director, two Superintendants, five assistants, three coordinators, ten advisors, two section bosses, fifteen division bosses, various secretaries, dozens of public officials and no one seemed to be the wiser!

…but the day I ate the person who made the cafezinho, I ruined everything!”

 

Dois leões fugiram do Jardim Zoológico.

Na fuga, cada um tomou um rumo diferente.
Um dos leões foi para as matas e o outro foi para o centro da cidade. Procuraram os leões por todo o lado, mas ninguém os encontrou.
Depois de um mês, para surpresa geral, o leão que voltou foi justamente o que fugira para as matas. Voltou magro, faminto, alquebrado.
Assim, o leão foi reconduzido a sua jaula.

Passaram-se oito meses e ninguém mais se lembrou do leão que fugira para o centro da cidade, quando um dia, o bicho foi recapturado. E voltou ao Jardim Zoológico gordo, sadio, vendendo saúde.

Mal ficaram juntos de novo, o leão que fugira para a floresta perguntou ao colega:

Como é que conseguiste ficar na cidade esse tempo todo e ainda voltar com saúde? Eu, que fugi para para a mata, tive que voltar, porque quase não encontrava o que comer .. !!!

O outro leão então explicou:
- Enchi-me de coragem e fui esconder-me numa repartição pública. Cada dia comia um funcionário e ninguém dava por falta dele.

- E por que voltaste então para cá? Tinham acabado os funcionários?
- Nada disso. Funcionário público é coisa que nunca se acaba. É que eu cometi um erro gravíssimo. Tinha comido o diretor geral, dois superintendentes, cinco adjuntos, três coordenadores, dez assessores, doze chefes de seção, quinze chefes de divisão, várias secretárias, dezenas de funcionários e ninguém deu por falta deles!
Mas, no dia em que eu comi o que servia o cafezinho…
Estraguei tudo!!!

Love and Its Timing – Carlos Drummond

Love and Its Timing
by Carlos Drummond de Andrade
Translation by Adam
 

The mature are privileged to love
stretched out in the narrowest of beds
which becomes larger and grassier
touching lightly, in each pore, bodily sky

That is love: the unexpected reward,
the subterraneous and glittering prize
the reading of ciphered lightning
which, deciphered, nothing more exists

worth the pain and the terrestrial price
except for the golden minute in the watch
tiny, trembling in the twilight hours

Love is what is learned close to limit
after one files away all kinds of science
inherited, heard of. Love begins late.  

It’s Elementary, My Dear Caipira

Discovering the Caipirinha 
Author: Jô Soares
Translation: Clifford Landers 

It was all recorded by the Brazilian writer Jô Soares. Sherlock Holmes and his friend Dr. Watson visited Brazil in 1886. He had been invited by Emperor Pedro II, at the suggestion of Sarah Bernhardt, who was in Rio de Janeiro in the midst of her grand tour of Latin America. A precious Stradivarius violin had been stolen from the boudoir of one of emperor’s mistresses and Holmes was summoned to solve the mystery. By the time he arrived, Rio was beset by a serial killer. His deductive powers did not lead him to find the killer; he was much befuddled by the tropical voluptuousness of Rio de Janeiro during the Belle Epoque. He did, however, discover other things. 

“If you’ll permit me, Mr. Holmes, the best medicine for this morning-after sensation is a good dose of cachaca.” 

“Cachaca? What the devil is that?” 

“It’s a type of rum made from sugarcane. A very smooth drink, delicious. One dose will be enough for your complete recovery. In fact, I’ll go with you. I’m feeling a bit poorly myself this morning.” 

“Saraiva, I don’t know if it’s a good idea to give Holmes cachaca at this hour, injected Mello Pimenta. 

“Nonsense, my dear Mello Pimenta. I’m sure this venerable remedy will make our English friend into a new man,” the doctor assured him. 

The four men went to a bar at the corner of Riachuelo Street. Saraiva, with his enviable alcoholic experience, ordered two servings of the best rum in the house and downed the contents of his glass in a single swallow. When Dr. Watson saw the transparent liquid, which gave off a very strong smell of alcohol, he inquired what the drink was. 

“Nothing to worry about, Watson, just a rum made from sugarcane. Professor Saraiva assures me that it has excellent curative properties,” translated Holmes for his friend. 

“I don’t know, Holmes. From the smell, it looks to me like something quite strong. Maybe it’d be better not to drink it neat,” he advised. 

“What should I do then–add some water?” 

“I think some fruit juice would be better. Orange or lime. They’re excellent specifics. We even know of their undisputed properties in combating scurvy.” 

Sherlock turned to the owner of the bar. 

“My friend here is suggesting that I put a bit of orange juice or lime in the drink. Have you by any chance got either of these fruits?” 

“I have limes,” answered the proprietor, intrigued, his eyes never leaving the hat and the Northeasterner’s sandals that the doctor was still wearing. 

Watson added, “Maybe it would also be good to throw in some ice and sugar, Holmes, to compensate for the heat produced by the alcohol.” 

Sherlock Holmes transmitted the doctor’s demands. The bar owner went to the end of the counter and told his employee to bring the materials requested. Watson cut the lime into four parts and placed two pieces in the glass along with the sugar. He then proceeded to crush the slices with a spoon, saying, “To be on the safe side, it’s best to put the segments in whole and squeeze.” 

When he finished the operation, he added a few pieces of ice and handed the curious potion to the detective. 

“All right, Holmes, now I think you can drink it without danger.” 

From the end of the bar, the employee and the proprietor looked on in fascination. The young barman asked, “Boss, what language are they speakin’?” 

“Hanged if I know. To me it’s Latin or the devil’s own tongue.” 

“And what’s that concoction they’re mixin’ up?” 

“I don’t know, something invented by that caipira there,” he said, pointing to Watson’s cowboy hat and using the Brazilian term for a hick. 

“Which hick, the big one?” asked the young man, indicating Sherlock Holmes, who was dressed all in white. 

“No, the big caipira is just drinking it. The one who made it is the little hick, the caipirinha,” replied the owner. Thus was baptized the exotic mixture that is Brazil’s national. 

Reprinted from A Samba for Sherlock, by Jô Soares, [c] 1995, Companhia das Letras, Sao Paulo.

Olinda – “Oh, beautiful!”

Olinda is a historic city in the Brazilian state of Pernambuco, located on the country’s northeasternAtlantic Ocean coast, just north of Recife and south of Paulista. It has a population of 376,800 people (2005) and is one of the best-preserved colonial cities in Brazil. The city’s name can be interpreted as an exclamation regarding the beauty of its setting (“Ó, linda!” is Portuguese for “Oh, beautiful!”), but a much more likely source is a literary character in the chivalry romance Amadis de Gaula.

Olinda features a number of major tourist attractions, such as a historic downtown area (World Heritage Site), churches, and the Carnival of Olinda, a popular street party, very similar to traditional Portuguese carnivals, with the addition of African influenced dances. Unlike in Rio de Janeiro and Salvador, in Olinda, admission to Carnival is free. All the festivities are celebrated on the streets, and there are no bleachers or roping. There are hundreds of small musical groups (sometimes featuring a single performer) in many genres.

History

Several indigenous tribes occupied the coast of Northeastern Brazil for several thousand years, and the hills of the present day municipality of Olinda had settlements of Caetés and Tupinambá tribes, which were frequently at war. French mercenaries are thought to be the first Europeans to get to the region, but the Portuguese exploited intertribal rivalries and managed to build a stronghold on the former Caeté village in the higher hill. Recent studies by the Universidade Federal de Pernambuco have uncovered new evidence of the pre-colonial population of the area. The settlement of Olinda was founded in 1535 by Duarte Coelho Pereira; it was elevated to a town in March 12, 1537. It was made the seat of the Territorial Prelature of Pernambuco in 1614, becoming the Diocese of Olinda in 1676.

Olinda was the capital of the hereditary captaincy of Pernambuco, but was burned by Dutch invaders. The Portuguese built their town on the hill, for practical purposes (sewers) and to make it easier to defend. In the 17th century the Kingdom of Portugal was united with Spain (the 1580-1640 Iberian Unionperiod). Taking advantage of this period of Portuguese weakness, the area around Olinda and Recifewas occupied by the Dutch who gained access to the Portuguese sugarcane plantations. John Maurice, Prince of Nassau-Siegen was appointed as the governor of the Dutch possessions in Brazil in 1637 by the Dutch West India Company on recommendation of Frederick Henry. He landed at Recife, the port of Pernambuco and the chief stronghold of the Dutch, in January 1637. By a series of successful expeditions, he gradually extended the Dutch possessions from Sergipe on the south to São Luís de Maranhão in the north. He likewise conquered the Portuguese possessions of Saint George del Mina, Saint Thomas, and Luanda, Angola, on the west coast of Africa. After the dissolution of the Iberian Union in 1640, Portugal would reestablish its authority over the lost territories of the Portuguese Empire.

 

(Map made for the Dutch invasion of Olinda in 1630)

Besides its natural beauty, Olinda is also one of the most important of Brazil’s cultural centers. Declared in 1982 a Historical and Cultural Patrimony of Humanity by the UNESCO, Olinda relives the magnificence of the past every year during the Carnival, in the rhythm of frevomaracatu and others rhythms.

The preceding text is a continuation of a series I’m doing on patrimonial heritage.