Eat…Brazilian food?

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(Alex Atala is considered the best chef in Brazil)

“HERE’S a novel idea: When in São Paulo, eat Brazilian food.

Well, perhaps not so novel for gastronomes who travel to Milan for osso buco, the French Riviera for bouillabaisse or the Yucatán for cochinita pibil. But for the Brazilian business capital’s restaurant-crazy natives — who can’t stop raving about the Italian bistro Due Cuochi Cucina and are quite sure Aizomê serves the best sashimi outside of Japan — that may be an odd concept.

The abundant praise for São Paulo’s dining scene has historically focused on its global range. Brazilian food, meanwhile, is what you eat at home or in rural roadside pit stops or at restaurants serving dirt-cheap, starch-heavy lunch specials known as “pratos feitos” (literally, “made plates”).

But the idea that Brazilian cuisine can hold its own is slowly taking hold in São Paulo, thanks to a new generation of chefs looking outward for technique but inward for ingredients and tradition. Attuned to the necessities of presentation by their (mostly) European training and conscious that the heaviness of traditional Brazilian dishes will never pass muster with the gym-going elite, they have created a movement that has given their own nation a new sense of pride in its culinary heritage.”

- Source (more here)

In the story, they make prato feito sound like chopped liver when it’s one of my favorite dishes. Ok, so it’s not anything fancy…but it sure is good.

Portuguese Diglossia – Part 2

In accordance with the article on diglossia within the Portuguese language the other day, here’s the second part.

Prestige

This theory also posits that the matter of diglossia in Brazil is further complicated by forces of political and cultural bias, though those are not clearly named. Language has been made, apparently, into a tool of social exclusion or social choice.

Mário A. Perini, a famous Brazilian linguist, has said:

“There are two languages in Brazil. The one we write (and which is called “Portuguese”), and another one that we speak (which is so despised that there is not a name to call it). The latter is the mother tongue of Brazilians, the former has to be learned in school, and a majority of population does not manage to master it appropriately…. Personally, I do not object to us writing Portuguese, but I think it is important to make clear that Portuguese is (at least in Brazil) only a written language. Our mother tongue is not Portuguese, but Brazilian Vernacular. This is not a slogan, nor a political statement, it is simply recognition of a fact…. There are linguistic teams working hard in order to give the full description of the structure of the Vernacular. So, there are hopes, that within some years, we will have appropriate grammars of our mother tongue, the language that has been ignored, denied and despised for such a long time.”

According to Milton M. Azevedo (Brazilian linguist):

“The relationship between Vernacular Brazilian Portuguese and the formal prescriptive variety fulfills the basic conditions of Ferguson’s definition [of diglossia]…[...] Considering the difficulty encountered by vernacular speakers to acquire the standard, an understanding of those relationships appears to have broad educational significance. The teaching of Portuguese has traditionally meant imparting a prescriptive formal standard based on a literary register (Cunha 1985: 24) that is often at variance with the language with which students are familiar. As in a diglossic situation, vernacular speakers must learn to read and write in a dialect they neither speak nor fully understand, a circumstance that may have a bearing on the high dropout rate in elementary schools…”

According to Bagno (1999) the two variants coexist and intermingle quite seamlessly, but their status is not clear-cut. Brazilian Vernacular is still frowned upon by most grammarians and language teachers, with only remarkably few linguists championing its cause. Some of this minority, of which Bagno is an example, appeal to their readers by their ideas that grammarians would be detractors of the termed Brazilian Vernacular, by naming it a “corrupt” form of the “pure” standard, an attitude which they classify as “linguistic prejudice”. Their arguments include the postulate that the Vernacular form simplifies some of the intricacies of standard Portuguese (verbal conjugation, pronoun handling, plural forms, etc.).

Bagno accuses the prejudice against the vernacular in what he terms the “8 Myths”:

  1. There is a striking uniformity in Brazilian Portuguese
  2. Nearly all Brazilians speak very poor Portuguese while in Portugal people speak it very well
  3. Portuguese is extremely difficult
  4. People that have had poor education can’t speak anything correctly
  5. In the state of Maranhão people speak a better Portuguese than elsewhere in Brazil
  6. We should speak as closely as possible to the written language
  7. The knowledge of grammar is essential to the correct and proper use of a language
  8. To master Standard Portuguese is the path to social promotion

In opposition to the “myths”, Bagno counters that:

  1. The uniformity of Brazilian Portuguese is just about what linguistics predicts for such a large country whose population has not generally been literate for centuries and which has experienced considerable foreign influence, that is, this uniformity is more apparent than real.
  2. Brazilians speak Standard Portuguese poorly because, in fact, they speak a language that is sufficiently different from SP so that the latter sounds almost “foreign” to them. In terms of comparison, it is easier for many Brazilians to understand someone from a Spanish-speaking South American country than someone from Portugal because the spoken varieties of Portuguese on either side of the Atlantic have diverged to point of nearly being mutually unintelligible.
  3. No language is difficult for those who speak it. Difficulty appears when two conditions are met: the standard language diverges from the vernacular and a speaker of the vernacular tries to learn the standard version. This divergence is the precise reason why spelling and grammar reforms happen every now and then.
  4. People with less education can speak the vernacular or often several varieties of the vernacular, and they speak it well. They might, however, have trouble in speaking SP, but this is due to lack of experience rather than to any inherent deficiency in their linguistic mastery.
  5. The people of Maranhão are not generally better than fellow Brazilians from other states in speaking SP, especially because that state is one of the poorest and has one of the lowest literacy rates.
  6. It is the written language that must reflect the spoken and not vice versa: it is not the tail that wags the dog.
  7. The knowledge of grammar is intuitive for those who speak their native languages. Problems arise when they begin to study the grammar of a foreign language.
  8. Rich and influential people themselves often do not follow the grammatical rules of SP. SP is mostly a jewel for powerless middle-class careers (journalists, teachers, writers, actors, etc.).

Whether Bagno’s points are valid or not is still open to debate (especially the solutions he recommends for the problems he identifies). Whereas some agree that he has captured the feelings of the Brazilians towards their own linguistic situation well, his book (Linguistic Prejudice: What it Is, How To Do) has been heavily criticized by some linguists and grammarians, due to his daring and unorthodox claims, sometimes even regarded as based on biased or unproven claims. – Source

Yahoo’s Meme is perhaps tarde d+

Yahoo previewed its Twitter clone today, although only in Portuguese (I suppose they are rolling it out to Brazil first). The service is called Meme and apparently does the same thing as Twitter although with an allowance of 100 characters per ‘meme’. The problem is Twitter is already king and Brazilians are already ‘tweeting’.

The term ‘meme’ comes from Richard Dawkins 1976 book ‘The Selfish Gene’, a book which basically says we are not in charge of our destiny, but rather the gene is. Anyways, ‘meme’ refers to an element of culture or behavior which is passed on non genetically, ie imitated. An interesting read (I’ve read it) if you follow genetics and/or subscribe to the theory of evolution. Speaking of which, Charles Darwin wrote ‘The Origin of the Species’ after visiting Brazil.

Note: Tarde d+ means ‘too late’ (d+ = de mais = demais)

The House of Eleven Windows – Belém

On the first street in Belém, Siqueira Mendes, the Casa das 11 Janelas (House of 11 Windows) stands. It was built in the 18th century as a residence for a sugar baron. The neoclassical building also served as a military hospital from 1768 for the government of Grão-Pará (present day Belém). From 1870 and onwards, the house was used solely by the military, up until 2001 when it was bought by the government as a future location for tourism. Currently, it holds various classical and modern art exhibitions as well as a photography exhibit upstairs. While there, don’t miss a chance to eat at one of Belém’s best restaurants, Boteco das Onze, which is inside the House.

As Fodor’s says…

“Take a walk through the courtyard and imagine scenes of the past. This is where the aristocracy took tea and watched over the docks as slaves unloaded ships from Europe and filled them with sugar and rum.”

It can be found right on the bay where the Frei Caetano Brandão Plaza sits in the Cidade Velha (Old Town). Entrance is around US$1 although it’s free on either Tuesdays or Wednesdays (I’ll have to get confirmation).

Flying Kebab – A Brazilian journey to Beirut

Over at The Lebanese Inner Circle, I picked up on a post they did about a great independent Internet film (split into episodes) by Matheus Siqueira about…

“Nando, a Brazilian photographer, receives an Arabic letter revealing that he has an inheritance in Lebanon. The pilot (episode) of Flying Kebab shows the life of someone who is about to make the trip of his life, exploring the culture, people, food and his inheritance in the Middle East.”  - Source

One thing I can’t tell, is if it’s real or fiction as the main character apparently isn’t an actor in real life. Oh well, here’s the official site (where you can check out episode 2)!

Vidas Secas by Graciliano Ramos

Vidas Secas (translated as Barren Lives, although seca literally means dry) is a novel by twentieth-century Brazilian writer Graciliano Ramos, written in 1938. It tells the cyclical story of a family of five: Fabiano, the father; Sinhá Vitória, the mother; two sons (just called boys) and their dog called Baleia (whale in Portuguese) in the poverty stricken and arid Brazilian northeast. One of the distinguishing characteristics of the book is that it is written in said cyclical manner, making it possible to read the first chapter as a continuation of the last chapter, reflecting the cycle of poverty and desolation in the Sertão. Another distinguishing characteristic is that the dog Baleia is considered the most sensible and human character.

It is often considered amongst the most important works in Brazilian literature, with a “dry”, concise style of writing. Here is a customer review placed online at Amazon.com

“Barren Lives” deals with the essence of human souls, when there is nothing left to believe in, nothing left to look foward to, nothing to relish, nothing to praise, when it all comes down not to being humans, as we’re not, but to being animals. It sounds and looks very deep and poetic, but the strength of this novel comes from its veracity. It doesn’t make us readers wonder about our fragility or our values. It wants to sting us with the indignation of living our mediocre lives. It exposes human mediocrity. Far beyond social critic, it is a social attack. Ramos is dry: he saves up words, writing solely what’s essential. He would condense it even more, to short sentences, little phrases, single words. He wouldn’t even write, if he had the chance. A real genius of literature who has captured sentiments with completely detachment, subverting his own magistral reasoning. A book that MUST be read, although I couldn’t trust an English version of it.”

Film

Vidas Secas was adapted into a highly praised film by Nelson Pereira dos Santos, in 1963, and would become a landmark for the Cinema Novo movement. I recently saw the film and found it enlightening as far as how life really was/is in the arid Northeast. If you are interested in seeing it with English subs, don’t tell anyone but Youtube most likely has it in 10 parts…unfortunately, I found this out after having seen the film.

‘Modern Warfare’ now in Rio favela

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“Images from a story this month by the magazine GameInformer confirm that the new shoot-em-up Modern Warfare 2 will use a Rio de Janeiro favela as a backdrop for part of the game, which is a continuation of the popular “Call of Duty: Modern Warfare”. The game also has confirmed scenarios for Afghanistan and Russia.

In the report by GameInformer, the developers promise interactive scenarios which can be destroyed by the player. Beyond this, they guarantee that the game will have a frame rate of 60 frames per second, “even with dozens of explosions occurring at the same time”. – Source (in PT)

My Take

What is wrong with these people? First we have companies creating first-person shooting games, which I’m told are heavily financed by the US military, where the ‘player’ (because it’s just a game, right?) goes around murdering ‘bad guys’ (usually ethnic) while most of the time being dressed in all black outfits. Does this strike anyone as odd that being dressed in black used to mean you were a bad guy and now it means you are with the ‘special forces’? Neither of which need to follow the rules to get the job done.

Second, we have companies reporting on these types of games and third, we have people actually going out and buying them. Violence begets violence. Think for a second how many millions of times you have seen fictitious murder by firearm on TV or in movies…now think of how many times you’ve seen that in real life. I don’t know about you, but my tally is 100 million x 0.

As Akutyger wrote in her Bahia blog a month or two ago, even cartoons have violence. When a character falls off a cliff, we laugh or when a character gets hit repeatedly on the head with a mallet, we laugh. Clearly, we live in a culture of violence, one with no end in sight. Furthermore, when dealing with popular notions of Brazil, this just furthers the idea that Brazil is only a violent, destitute place.

Local currencies now being favored

Thanks to Tom, who runs Nossa! Brazilian Culture and Music, I was given a link to an article which just came out that speaks to how local currencies are starting to spring up in Brazil (and even parts of the US). It seems citizen-driven initiatives are gaining ground as they take control of their own lives and shut out the banking system they were born into.

For me, currency doesn’t only mean a unit of something widely accepted as money, but rather I think of it as anything that has been given value by two or more people (basically a commodity). Just like language, when two or more speak the same tongue, something of value has been created within that dynamic. Los Angeles has its Beyond Barter, Buenos Aires has its Clubes de Trueque and Fortaleza has its Palmas bank…with any luck, these movements will spread like wildfire.

“At a time when big financial firms are reviled by many for leading the world into crisis, a ramshackle bank on a potholed street has lessons in economic independence that are catching on around the world.

With its own money, the palma, that is trusted and heavily used, many of the 32,000 residents of the Palmeiras slum in the northeastern Brazil city of Fortaleza go days without seeing or using Brazil’s national currency.

Backed by the community bank that hands out zero-interest loans in the currency, the 11-year old palma is accepted by businesses throughout the area, whose residents credit it with transforming the local economy. It has spawned more than 30 linked community banks from the Amazon region to southeastern Espirito Santo state, up from just two in 2005.

And lately, Palmeiras residents say, the palma has shielded them from the crisis fallout spreading through Latin America’s biggest economy, where millions of poor struggled to get access to credit even before the financial turmoil struck.

“The palma has helped people get over this crisis, the loans have helped give people continuity,” said Joan Perreira de Souza, the 46-year-old owner of a local supermarket that has expanded in recent years thanks to loans made in palmas.” – Source (more here)

Innovative Capitalism

There’s a really interesting idea coming out of Brazil (big surprise there) and it’s along the lines of Participatory Budgeting that I wrote about a few months back. The only difference between participatory budgeting and what is being done at Semco, a Brazilian manufacturer, is that Semco applies the participatory idea to their business model. Here’s the spiel…

“Some call it anarchic socialism, some cutting edge capitalism. At Brazilian manufacturer Semco, the workers have sacked the boss, and run the company themselves.

At the lavish reception, one of two receptionists meet and greet the great and mighty. But no-one really ever knows which one it will be at any given time. “‘We are not sure which one will be there, because they set their own schedule” explains IT worker boss Joao Neto. There are hammocks to help workers think in comfort, and departments can choose their own furniture. Even salaries are set by the employees themselves, and bosses are just as likely to tell you to ask for more money than less. But although it sounds like a workers dream, the rest of the department keeps an eagle eye on lazy employees: “There is peer pressure for bad behaviour. If you’re here just to profit from other people’s efforts, you’re not wanted”. The easy going atmosphere has paid dividends — annual profits at Semco are up to US$ 160m these days, from US$ 4m when owner Ricardo Semler took over 25 years ago. Now he has turned his attention to teaching — without the teachers. Like Semco, pupils at Lumiar primary school in Sao Paulo dictate the rules. Vive La Revolucion?”

Now, for the 15 minute video..