Brazilian Farwest – Legião Urbana in English

On Youtube, there’s a user who translated a very famous 9-minute song from Legião Urbana, called Faroeste Caboclo (Mestizo Western). Not only did he translate it, but he ‘sung’ it in English. On the video’s side notes, he admits he’s a bad singer but it’s still a good attempt at an interesting idea. My Brazilian friends and I got together the other week and tried to sing the original ourselves (sans a lyrical reference) but after the halfway mark, no one could really remember the rest of the lyrics. Below, I’ll post the translated video and the original.

Here’s the lyrics in Portuguese.

Eyes On Belém – Getting local

So a few weeks ago, I decided to do something a bit random and spur an off-shoot to this site by creating Eyes On Belém. The response has not been big (most likely due to me not advertising it) but what feedback I have received has been very positive. I’ve found that people from Belém and Pará in general are quite delighted to have someone writing about their culture and such a response makes all the difference.

Regards

P.S. – You may recognize a 1/5 of the articles on the new site, as I took them from this one.

Hidden Pousadas Brazil – New Site

I found a new site to add to the links page and it’s called Hidden Pousadas Brazil. As the name suggests, it covers a growing list of bed n’ breakfast spots all over Brazil and includes pictures, commentary and information about the pousada, the location and what should not be missed locally.

“Pousada literally means ‘place to stay’ and there are thousands of them all over Brazil, ranging from the very simple to the extremely sophisticated, luxurious and expensive. More difficult is to know which ones are the nicest when there are so many to choose from.”

The page called ‘The Pousada Concept’ covers all you need to know before deciding on a pousada (versus a hotel). Aside from the information listed above, one can also book reservations via the site.

And now, a message from the owner!

“Delighted you found the site, and that you found it useful. We are always looking for new pousadas to add, anywhere in Brazil, so if anyone has any favourites, please let us know. Criteria: comfort, service, personality, value for money and nice owners!”

Ilha do Marajó – Getting away

“Even for Brazilians, who have left almost no nook or cranny of their vast country unexplored, the island of Marajó, at the mouth of the Amazon River, seems a distant and exotic destination.

The size of Switzerland, Marajó abounds with exotic wildlife, jungles, beaches, lagoons, mangrove swamps and flood plains, but has few permanent human inhabitants and is permeated with an end-of-the-world feeling. No wonder then that “At the Limit” – the Brazilian equivalent of the television reality show “Survivor” – was once shot on Marajó.

For the adventurous or curious, though, Marajó and the group of smaller islands that surround it have an almost irresistible appeal. Rarely does nature in all its intimidating majesty seem so close at hand: Two gigantic bodies of water, the Atlantic Ocean and the Amazon River, confront each other offshore and together shape human life onshore into a battle of another sort, against the stifling exuberance of the tropics.

Which is not to say that conditions on Marajó are necessarily spartan. Yes, luxury is hard to obtain, but in three trips over the last five years, what has impressed me most is how much more welcoming to visitors the archipelago is today than at the time of my first sojourn, in 1978. With the construction of several hotels in recent years, it is now possible to sample the wilds and then return to the comfort of an air-conditioned room and a cold drink.

That’s exactly the routine I followed on my most recent visit, in October. After strolling along an isolated beach, where waves lapped the white sands, I would return to my hotel, the Ilha do Marajó, and relax poolside or play table tennis. After the tide had changed, I would return to the same spot on the beach, only to find that as a result of the eternal struggle for supremacy between the Amazon and the Atlantic, what had earlier been salt water was now fresh water, or vice versa.”

The rest of the entertaining three-page article is at NYT.

According to Notícias da Amazônia, the boat ride to Marajó has been shortened (from 3 hours to 2 hours) thanks to a new departing point and a new boat company (Álamo). Now, one can depart from Estação das Docas on any day (except Wednesday), leaving at 8:30 AM and coming back from Salvaterra (on Marajó) at 4:30PM. Tickets can be bought at the kiosks at the Terminal Fluvial in Estação das Docas or if you find yourself already in Marajó, at the Terminal Hidroviário de Camará as well as commercial centers of Soure and Salvaterra on the island.

Luiz Braga – Profiles

I’d like to start a series of profiles where I can highlight personalities of Belém, so here’s the first one…

“Luiz Braga was born in Belém, Pará in 1956. He took up photography at the age of 11. In 1975 he set up his first studio producing portraits, advertising and architectural photography. He graduated in architecture in 1983.

In 1987 he was awarded the Marc Ferrez prize for the photo essay A margem do olhar (The edge of the gaze), shot in black and white, in which he produced a portrait of the Caboclo Amazon. Braga has made this region his central theme, particularly his hometown, which is the setting for most of the pictures that have featured in his more than 70 collective and individual exhibitions in Brazil and abroad.

His images, which emerge from the photographic act already full of surreal colours, have, in recent years, given the alteration of the colour standard used in film, begun to receive some light tampering with image treatment programs in order to re-establish the distortions so characteristic of the artist’s work.

In 1991 he received the prestigious Leopold Godowsky Color Photography Award, from Boston University, precisely for the originality and control with which he captures the clash between the natural light and the artificial light of bars, parks and riverboats, always using the distortion of the colour temperature readings of day light balanced film to craft his poetic.” – Source

The Magical Universe of Ver-o-peso Market

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“The Mercado is a true museum. A living museum of knowledge, full of colors, tastes, smells, shouts and singing. Popular festivals, religious rituals, handmade products and all of it is a gamut of images of human values which are made real through this chronicle,” explains Luiz.”

Launched in Belém and in SP (São Paulo), it’s available at Livraria da Vila (SP) and at Fox Vídeo and Newstime (Belém), as well as directly from the author 91.32230724 or Editora Modernsign 11.38910002. The book has 98 images within its 132 pages and texts by Milton Hatoum and J. Jesus Paes Loureiro. Sponsered by Natura. Price: R$45,00 (US$20).

Luiz Braga’s main site with examples of his work is here. His email is bragafoto@uol.com.br

Lenine on Movida Brasileña

Reginaldo Lima of Movida Brasileña scored a great interview (ES) with Lenine, one of my favorite singers, a few weeks back in Madrid. In it, he talks for a second about fame and its easy to see he could care less about it. As I posted above, its in Spanish (ES) but for a Portuguese speaker, it shouldn’t be so hard to follow along. What may seem a bit weird for some, is the fact that the three people speaking in Spanish are all Brazilians.

If you get a chance to see Lenine live though, I highly recommend getting tickets. Once he came to San Francisco and the tickets were $20 for a room that probably fit about 100 people. I guess I lucked out.


Bombardment of Salvador, 1912

There’s a piece of Salvador’s history which apparently has been swept under the rug, so to speak. Its called the ‘Bombardeio de Salvador’ and involves various politicians fighting over control of Salvador in the early 1900′s. I came across a video on Youtube of the incident and took it upon myself to spend a few hours transcribing and translating the copy in order to reupload the video with English subtitles. There’s a word or two I may have incorrectly translated or not understood so bare with me and enjoy.

The first 10 seconds should be skipped. Also if the little Youtube watermark in the corner blocks some of the translation, just click on the video and go to Youtube to get a better view.

Unfortunately, the only other information I could find on the matter is the Wikipedia page (PT) and the following, which I will translate…

“A causa imediata do incidente foi a recusa do então governador do Estado em exercício, Aurélio Viana, Presidente da Câmara dos Deputados, em cumprir decisão exarada por juiz federal, … de mandar retirar a milícia estadual que ora ocupava o Paço Municipal.”

“The immediate cause of the incident was the refusal of the acting governor of the State, Aurélio Viana, President of the Chamber of Deputies, to follow a decision rendered by federal judge demanding the removal of the state militia that occupied the Municipal Palace.”

Elevador Lacerda – Salvador da Bahia

The Lacerda Elevator is located in the city of Salvador, Bahia. One of the principal touristic points and postal cards of the city, it’s situated in the Cayru Plaza in the neighborhood of Comércio next to the Modelo Market, and connects the Cidade Baixa (Lower City) with the Cidade Alta (Upper City).

The most famous elevator of Bahia transports some 900 thousand passengers per month or around 28 thousand passengers per day at the cost of five centavos per passenger and a duration of 30 seconds.

History


(circa 1920)

The famous elevator was constructed by the engineer Agusto Frederico de Lacerda, his brother’s associate, businessman Antônio Francisco de Lacerda, creator of the Company of Urban Transport, using pieces of steel imported from England. The work was initiated in 1869 and with two working hydraulic elevators and in 1873, the inauguration occurred at which point it was named the Hydraulic Elevator of Conceição da Praia. Popularly though, it was known as the Elevador do Parafuso (or Elevator of the Screw), and later in 1896, it was renamed as the Elevator Lacerda to honor its maker.

After its inauguration, it started to become the principal means of transport between the two parts of the city. Initially operating with two cabins which nowadays function as four modern electricity-driven cabins that can transport 20 passengers each.

With the original structure, the passengers had to be weighed individually as the weight of all the combined passengers was calculated until the maximum limit was reached. The Baron of Jeremoabo (Cícero Dantas) registered the weight of himself and of other authorities:

“On the 16th day of March of 1889, we weighed ourselves in the elevator, giving the following result: Pinho - 54 kilos, or 3 arrobas and 98 pounds; Cícero - 61 kilos, or 4 arrobas and 2 pounds; Guimarães – 65 kilos or 4 arrobas and 10 pounds; Artur Rios - 73 kilos or 4 arrobas and 26 pounds; and Vaz Ferreira – 115 kilos, or 7 arrobas and 20 pounds.”

For a mini-documentary (PT) on the Lacerda Group and how they helped transform the city of Salvador, go here.

Getting in and out of Belém (by plane)

In the post on the basics of Belém, I covered things like where Belém is on a map, its history and included an English-language video giving a quick tour of Belém’s attractions. Many people travelling into and out of the city, however, are looking for even more practical information such as how to arrive, what to do and how to depart. So ‘vamos lá!‘ (lit. ‘let’s go there’, fig. ‘let’s get on with it’).

Aereal Distances (BEL)

City, State – Airport Code

São Luis, MA – SLZ
299 mi (482 km).
Flight – 1hr;

Teresina, PI – THE
466 mi (750 km).
Flight – 2hr 25min;

Manaus, AM – MAO
803 mi (1,292 km).
Flight – 1hr 5min;

Brasília, DF – BSB
990 mi (1,593 km).
Flight – 2hr 15min;

Cuiabá, MT – CGB
1,105 mi (1,778 km).
Flight – 4hr 50min (layover);

Belo Horizonte, MG - CNF/PLU
1,311 mi (2,111 km).
Flight – 5hr 35min (layover);

Rio de Janeiro, RJ – GIG/SDU
1,523 mi (2,451 km).
Flight - 3hr 40min;

São Paulo, SP - GRU/CGH
1,530 mi (2,463 km).
Flight - 3hr 20min;

Florianópolis, SC – FLN
1,805 mi (2,905 km).
Flight – 6hr (layover).

As you can obviously tell, Belém is kind of on its own, that being said, the flight times aren’t too bad. All of the flight times were checked on TAM and the distances were checked here (distances by bus or ‘rodoviária’ are there too). On my post about the Int’l airport of Belém, I covered which airlines fly in and out of Belém.

In the future, I’ll be doing some posts on both bus lines and boat companies servicing the region. For now, let me leave you with a few terms you’ll need to know for flying within Brazil.

Flight Terms

Vôo – Flight
Ida e volta – Roundtrip
Ida (somente ida) – One-way
Bilhete/Passagem (aérea) – Ticket
Partida – Departure
Chegada – Arrival
Retorno – Return
Decolagem – Takeoff
Aterrisagem/Pouso/Desembarque – Landing
Atraso – Delayed
Escala – Layover
Aeromoço/Aeromoça – Steward/Stewardess

Jambú – the toothache plant

Jambú is a flowering herb plant, also known as toothache plant or paracress as the leaves and flower heads contain an analgesic agent spilanthol used to numb toothache. It is native to the tropics of Brazil, and is grown as an ornamental (and occasionally as a medicinal) in various parts of the world. A small, erect plant, it grows quickly and sends up gold and red flower inflorescences. It is frost-sensitive but perennial in warmer climates. The name paracress is in reference to the Northern Brazil state Pará. It is also known in Portuguese as agrião do Pará (as well as jambú).

For culinary purposes, small amounts of shredded fresh leaves add a unique flavour to salads. Cooked leaves lose their strong flavour and may be used as leafy greens. Both fresh and cooked leaves are used in dishes (such as stews like tacacá) in Belém and other parts of Northern Brazil, often combined with chillies and garlic to add flavor and vitamins to other foods.

Eating a whole flower bud results in a grassy taste, followed by an extremely strong tingling or numbing sensation and often excessive saliva production and a cooling sensation in the throat. If you are looking for a unique combination when in Belém, go to the restaurant Café Imaginário for a jambú pizza.

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(Panoramio)