“SAO PAULO, Brazil – Got 48 hours to explore the vast, vibrant metropolis that is not only Brazil’s commercial center, but its artistic and gastronomic heart?
Reuters correspondents with local knowledge help visitors get the most out of a visit to Sao Paulo, the city where trees are an integral part of the architecture and surround its museums, restaurants and shops.
FRIDAY
6 p.m. – Check into your hotel, which can range from a simple guest house such as the Pousada Dona Zilah on Alameda Franca or the more luxurious Slaviero on Alameda Campinas in the chic Jardim Paulista neighborhood.
8 p.m. – It’s hard to go hungry in Sao Paulo and it’s possible to eat well without breaking the bank. For a light snack or sandwich, try one of the bakeries like Padaria Caconde on Rua Caconde or the 24-hour A Bela Paulista on Rua Haddock Lobo.
Vila Madalena is a neighbor filled with bars and restaurants. The streets that cross Rua Aspicuelta – Rua Fidalga, Rua Fradique Coutinho and Rua Mourato Coelho – are the busiest. Filial on Rua Fidalga is a watering hole popular with journalists. If you’re a football fan – and everyone in Brazil is – try Sao Cristovao on Rua Aspicuelta.
11 p.m. – Feel like music? Head to Baretto, a small jazz bar in the fashionable Hotel Fasano where musicians play until nearly dawn.” – Source (more here)
Monthly Archives: April 2009
Informal Portuguese – To Clean/Limpar
Most people know the verb ‘limpar’ (to clean) but I wanted to give two other ways to say ‘clean’ which I think are more popular than ‘limpar’ itself. Both of these following phrases can be used with the verbs ‘dar’ (to give) or ‘fazer’ (to do/make). Eu vou fazer/dar uma faxina (if that word is new to you, it means remove dirt, cleanse). Eu vou dar/fazer uma geral (literally, general…which can be seen as ‘general clean-up’ in this case). Once again, these two informal phrases don’t have to be used with physical spaces, as they mean to clean up or tidy up anything in general.
Informal Portuguese questions – O que que..
Note: ‘O que que foi?’ can also mean ‘what’s wrong?’ Technically, any question starting with “O que que…” should actaully be “O que é que…” but the “é” is lost in informal speech. Additionally, one can say “Como é que é?” (Lit., How is it that it is? Basically this can be used when you don’t understand what the other person has said/explained). There’s even more uses of the “é que” but they all are just used to mean “…is it that…” (How is it that…Why is it that…Who is it that…)
Cocoa-caipirinha is very gut!
Over at Cachaçagora, Phil uncovered a story about a new chocolate bar by Lindt chocolate company. Apparently, it’s a mixture of caipirinha and…well, you guessed it, chocolate. An intriguing combination, to say the least. It seems that it’s only available in Germany, unless you order it online. (Update: Link now goes directly to the product page)

Foz de Iguaçu temporarily dries up

(normal vs current)
“CURITIBA – The prolonged drought in the interior of the state of Paraná already affected one of the most well-known postal cards around. On Tuesday, the water volume at the Iguaçu waterfalls, in the western region of the state, was five times less than normal. During normal days, the water volume can be registered at 1,500 cubic meters per second, which is a much larger output than this Tuesday’s measurements of 310 cubic meters per second.”

(O Globo loves to provide better pictures as thumbnails only)
One commentor on the article states that this drying up is perfectly normal as Southern Brazil enters it’s Winter season. Then she states “the sky (currently) is blue”.
With a little sparkle in the eyes – Godinho
With a little sparkle in the eyes
(Com Um Brilhozinho nos Olhos)
by Sergio Godinho
We changed clothes, we changed bodies
we exchanged kisses, so good, it’s so good
and with a little sparkle in the eyes
we played the guitar
at least when judging by the sound
As you can probably tell, he is a Portuguese singer (considered top of the class). Here’s another of his hits.
When the ‘Right of Way’ goes wrong
There’s one thing that has always bothered me about Brazil and it’s that there’s no ‘right of way’ when walking. It doesn’t matter who you are but if you want to walk down any street, corridor, through any store…virtually anywhere, you will encounter frustration. No one, and I mean no one respects the unwritten right of way rule we have here in the States. Allow me to explain…
Let’s say I’ve just left a building and start to walk down the sidewalk which is mildly crowded with people, I would have to change my trajectory about thirty times per minute in order to not run into someone else. Without bringing this little diatribe to the macro-level in terms of the collective mind frame of Brazilian society, I will say this, Americans see this problem coming and readjust way ahead of time while Brazilians wait for it to become a problem in order to correct it.
It’s just one of those things that you can’t avoid if you visit or live in Brazil and wish to go to a popular location. The worst offenders are in shopping malls and areas of commerce in general. One time, I literally felt sick and almost fell down (sounds more manly than ‘fainted’) in the middle of a crowded Brazilian mall because so many people were challenging my culturally transplanted perception of the right of way. Now, if you are the type of person who likes to people-watch (especially in foreign countries), this can be a double-edged sword. On the one hand, you get your eye-full 10x over but on the other hand, it can drive you completely bonkers.
Ok, there we go, I’ve said it.
Moqueca Baiana

Moqueca (mo-ke-ka) is a traditional Brazilian seafood stew. Brazilians have been making Moquecas for 300 years. It basically consists of fish, onions, garlic, tomatoes, cilantro, chili pepper (pimenta malagueta) and additional ingredients. It is cooked slowly, with no water added.
Its two variants are Moqueca Capixaba from Espírito Santo state in the Southeast, and Moqueca Baiana from Bahia state in the Northeast. It is common for people from these states to claim that their moqueca is the “only true” moqueca.
If you are going to make moqueca, you must not forget three basic things: A clay cooking pot, fresh ingredients and palm oil. Here’s the recipe.
Salvador Shopping forgets apartments

Salvador Shopping just began adding 201 new stores, bringing the grand total to 461 stores within the soon to be 298 meters sq. property (from its current 180 meters sq.). The parking complex will also be amplified, going from 4.2 thousand spaces to 6 thousand. Costwise, R$150 million is being invested with the new additions, which when added to the original cost, will total R$500,000,000. I think the only thing they forgot to add are apartments inside the mall.
Salvador has no shortage of malls (or shoppings, as they are called in ‘Portuguese’). The city is served by: Aeroclube Plaza Show, Caboatã Shopping, Casa Shopping Cidade, Out Let Center, Salvador Shopping, Shopping Baixo Dos Sapateiros, Shopping Barra, Shopping Boulevard 161, Shopping Brotas Center, Shopping Center Iguatemi, Shopping Center Lapa, Shopping Do Pelô, Shopping Imbuí Plaza, Shopping Itaigara, Shopping Orixás Center, Shopping Piedade, Shopping Sumaré.
My Take
Isn’t there something better to spend 500 million reals on? Education? Community-based projects like participatory budgeting? I find malls overrated and useless, much like my opinion of consumerism itself. They destroy the mom and pop stores and amalgamate the population against individualism and self-sustainability, not to mention turning them into zombies, fascinated by the bright lights and shiny things. If a product made anyone happy, as the marketing suggests, no one would need any other product for the rest of their life. Consumerism is nothing more than modern-day enslavement. I think Salvador already went through that in the colonial times.
Pelourinho – The Colonial & Cultural

The word Pelourinho, in a broad sense, corresponds to a wood column normally placed in the center of a plaza, where criminals were exhibited and punished. In Brazil, and especially the pelourinho in Salvador, the principal use was to punish slaves with lashings of a whip during the colonial period. In the era after slavery in Brazil, this place in the city started to attract artists of every type: cinema, music, painting, etc, turning Pelourinho into a cultural center.

Pelourinho was an entirely residential neighborhood, where the best living quarters were located, all the way up until the start of the 20th century.
Starting from the 1960′s, it suffered a strong process of degradation, with the modernization of the city and the transference of the economic activities taking place in other regions of the Bahian Capital. This transformed the Historical Center into a den of prostitution and marginality.
In 1991, there was a massive State investment in security and financing in the areas of hospitality, restaurants, dance schools and other areas of art, in addition to a grand restoration of villas throughout the city. However, certain buildings were not repaired internally, as only the façades were prioritized, among other reasons, due to the interior state of the villas which impeded a faithful reconstruction. With the restoration, the search for national and international tourists was amplified. Furthermore, the restoration caused those who once lived in the villas to be relocated elsewhere within Salvador.
The Pelourinho of Salvador is a place full of colonial buildings of differing tones and colors. Because of its culturally historic value, the place is included on the National Historic Register, and called a World Cultural Site by UNESCO, which certified the location as a Patrimony of Humanity. Pelourinho is located within the Historic Center of Salvador, which due to UNESCO, allows Salvador to be a member of the Organization of Cities of Worldwide Patrimony.
